You’ve got to hand it to Antwerp


IMG_1329

After spending two days on a stag do in Belgium’s second city, Antwerp, I discovered that it’s far too nice a place for blokes on the rampage. With a beautiful main square and cracking cafe culture, it’s a new entry in my top ten European cities. Read on to find out why it should be your next city break.

Situated on the banks of the River Scheldt in the Flemish speaking part of Belgium, just 15 miles from the border with the Netherlands, Antwerp doesn’t get anywhere near as many visitors as Brussels or Bruges. Which is good for you, as you can enjoy it in peace.

So what’s all this about hands?

Well, according to legend a giant called Antigoon demanded a toll from anyone crossing the river, and those who refused had a hand cut off and thrown away. People had had enough of the bullying giant, so a hero called Brabo cut the giant’s hand off himself, and threw it in the river. The name Antwerp comes from the Dutch words for “hand throw”. Hands can be seen all over the city – the one below is in the main shopping street, Meir.

IMG_1341

So what is there to see and do in Antwerp?

For culture vultures

The city’s main square, Grote Markt, is one of the nicest you will ever see, with gold-topped guild houses all around it. Grab a seat at one of the pavement cafes and soak in the culture. There is a statue of the giant-slayer Brabo in the middle of the square – look closely and he is throwing nasty Antigoon’s hand away, with fountains of water rather than blood spurting from it.

IMG_1328

Antwerp’s immense gothic cathedral (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal, or OLV for short) can be seen from just about anywhere in the city, and is a great reference point if you get lost – it’s also handy if you need the time. As well as looking pretty stunning from the outside, I’ve since heard it’s a bit special on the inside too, with works of art by the famous painter Rubens.

IMG_1273

I do like a tall building, and at a height of 123 metres, there can’t be too many taller than OLV in Belgium – shame I couldn’t climb the tower.

IMG_1330

Alongside the banks of the Scheldt is Het Steen. This impressive looking castle is the oldest building in the city dating back to the Middle Ages, and now houses a maritime museum. Antwerp is the second biggest port in Europe after Rotterdam, so this fortress had an important part to play in protecting the city from invaders in days gone by.

IMG_1332

For the men

Drinking beer is great fun in all of Belgium, as it should be anywhere in the world, but in Antwerp – referred to as the City of Pavement Cafes – it is an absolute joy. Find a bar (there are tonnes around the Grote Markt), sit inside or out, and order the local beer De Koninck (“The King”), served in its own distinctive round glass called a Bolleke. They’re very proud of De Koninck in Antwerp, and every bar sells it on draft.

In the unlikely event that you get tired of this 5.2% dark amber coloured concoction, there are hundreds of other beers to sample – fruit beers, trappist beers, wheat beers, Duvel, Stella Artois, Maes, the list goes on…

IMG_1281

For foodies

Being a port city, seafood is big in Antwerp and we enjoyed a fantastic meal of mussels in separate trays of white wine, beer and garlic. Other than that, our stag do staple was fries with mayonnaise from the many Frituurs around town, although we did see plenty of intimate restaurants with hand-written menus on black chalk-boards outside.

I missed breakfast in our hotel, so had warm Belgian waffles with chocolate sauce for €2.50 – a heavenly start to the day. These are sold at little shacks dotted around the historic centre, and are not to be missed.

IMG_1338

Chocolate and Belgium have become a bit of a cliche, but you can’t leave Antwerp without visiting a chocolatier and bringing a box or two home. There are a couple of magical chocolate shops on Jan Blomstraat near the cathedral. I dithered about which one to choose, before buying a box of the ubiquitous Antwerp chocoalate hands (Antwerpse Handjes), and very nice they were too.

IMG_1333

For the ladies

Antwerp has a reputation for being something of a shoppers’ mecca, with a mixture of high street stores and independent boutiques, and is regarded in fashion circles as being on a par with London, Paris and Milan.

The Antwerp Six – six local fashion designers – put the city on the map in the 1980s, when they made international headlines for their innovative designs. The only one I’ve heard of is Dries Van Noten. As I was part of the Antwerp Fourteen on a stag do, the only shopping I did was for beer.

For families

Antwerp has a city centre zoo, right next to the train station. It’s one of the oldest zoos in Europe, but I didn’t have chance to visit – I saw enough animal behaviour the night before with my friends.

For lovers

Over 80% of the world’s rough diamonds pass through the city, making it the unofficial diamond capital of the world. The Diamond District, in the streets around the train station, is a popular place for couples to buy discounted engagement rings.

Staying there

We stayed at the Holiday Inn Express in the Het Eilandje area to the north of the city centre. This district is a bit like Liverpool’s Albert Dock, with museums, a few restaurants and bars surrounding a marina.

Getting there

Although it has its own tiny airport, there are few flights to Antwerp from the UK. It’s best to get the train there from Brussels Airport (43 minutes), Amsterdam Schiphol Airport (56 minutes on the high-speed Thalys service) or the Eurostar from London St. Pancras via Brussels (3 hours 18 minutes).

Advertisements
Categories: Belgium and NetherlandsTags: ,

26 comments

  1. The man outside the castle seems to have his genitals dangerously exposed to a sneak attack!
    After the success of your top ten beer posts I think you should do a top ten stag party destinations!

  2. Nice post. I’ve been to Antwerp but it was the wrong time of year to sit out in pavement cafes. Great city though & I use a picture of the giant hand in one of my business tweets so thanks for explaining its history

  3. Nice looking city, Richard! I could be tempted, if only for the waffles. Takes me back to my childhood hols at Scarborough!

  4. Don’t forget the third city, Ghent!! Amazing history, and a very nice atmosphere. xx

  5. Also, thank you, it’s always nice to hear people enjoying our country 😉 Have fun!

  6. Gotta hand it to you Richard you’ve temped me to book a trip or two to Belgium! Great post – loads of info and great shots too…

  7. I’m going to show the Mrs this post Richard, hopefully she wil then agree that we need a trip to Antwerp soon too

  8. I just got back from Belgium, but didn’t make it to Antwerp. The waffles and beer are fabulous.

  9. Can’t believe you’ve implied that only men drink beer and only women like shopping! Personally I’d be more interested in the beer! 😉

  10. Brilliant! thanks very much for the tips

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: